Question 1

How do I know if my tree is dead or just dormant?

Accepted Answer

Scratch a small section of bark on a twig with your fingernail. If the layer underneath is green and moist, the tree is alive. If it is brown and dry all the way through, that branch is dead. Check multiple branches at different heights. A tree that is fully dead will have brittle, easily snapping twigs, no bud development in spring, bark that is peeling away in large sheets, and often fungal growth at the base. When in doubt, a Maryland Licensed Tree Expert can assess the tree and give you a definitive answer before you make any decisions.

Question 2

What are the signs that a tree is diseased?

Accepted Answer

Common signs of tree disease include discolored, spotted, or prematurely dropping leaves; cankers (sunken, dead areas) on the bark; unusual growths or galls; oozing sap or slime flux (wet wood); wilting that does not improve with rain; dieback starting at the branch tips; and fungal conks or mushrooms growing at the base or on the trunk. Many diseases are treatable if caught early. A Licensed Tree Expert can diagnose the specific pathogen and recommend the appropriate course of action.

Question 3

Why are the leaves on my tree turning yellow?

Accepted Answer

Yellowing leaves (chlorosis) can have several causes: nutrient deficiency (especially iron or manganese in high-pH soils), overwatering or poor drainage, drought stress, compacted soil limiting root oxygen, root damage from construction or digging, or early-stage disease. The pattern of yellowing matters — yellowing between the veins while veins stay green often points to iron deficiency, while overall pale yellowing may indicate nitrogen deficiency. A soil test and professional assessment will identify the root cause.

Question 4

What is causing holes in my tree trunk?

Accepted Answer

Holes in a tree trunk are most commonly caused by wood-boring insects such as emerald ash borer, bronze birch borer, or various bark beetles. Woodpeckers drilling for those insects can also create rows of small holes. Some holes are old exit wounds from insects that have already left. Sap oozing from holes may indicate borers or bacterial wetwood. If you see fine sawdust-like frass around the holes, active borers are likely present and the tree should be evaluated promptly by a Licensed Tree Expert.

Question 5

My tree has mushrooms growing at the base. Is that a problem?

Accepted Answer

Mushrooms or conks (shelf fungi) growing at the base of a tree or on the root flare are a serious warning sign. They indicate that a wood-decay fungus is actively breaking down the structural wood inside the tree — a process that may have been underway for years before the fruiting bodies appear. By the time mushrooms are visible, significant internal decay may already be present. This is a structural safety concern and the tree should be evaluated by a Licensed Tree Expert as soon as possible.

Question 6

What is emerald ash borer and does it affect trees in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Emerald ash borer (EAB) is an invasive beetle from Asia that has devastated ash tree populations across North America. It is well-established throughout Maryland and has killed tens of millions of ash trees. EAB larvae feed under the bark, cutting off the tree's ability to transport water and nutrients. Signs include canopy dieback starting at the top, S-shaped galleries under the bark, D-shaped exit holes, and increased woodpecker activity. Untreated ash trees in infested areas typically die within 3–5 years. Preventive insecticide treatments are available and highly effective when applied before the tree is heavily infested.

Question 7

How do I know if my tree has root rot?

Accepted Answer

Root rot is often invisible until it is advanced. Warning signs include wilting or yellowing leaves despite adequate rainfall, stunted growth, branch dieback, a leaning tree, and mushrooms or fungal growth at the base. You may also notice soft, discolored wood at the root flare when you probe it. Root rot is caused by several fungal pathogens (Armillaria, Phytophthora, and others) and is often triggered by overwatering, poor drainage, or soil compaction. A Licensed Tree Expert can probe the root zone and assess the extent of decay.

Question 8

When should a tree be removed rather than saved?

Accepted Answer

A tree should be considered for removal when it is dead or dying with no viable treatment path; when it has significant structural defects such as a split trunk, large cavities, or severe lean toward a target (house, car, power line); when more than 50% of the canopy is dead or damaged; when root damage is so extensive that the tree cannot be stabilized; or when the tree is causing damage to foundations, utilities, or structures that cannot be mitigated. A Licensed Tree Expert is legally required to recommend removal only when it is genuinely in the best interest of the tree or the client — not simply to generate work.

Question 9

Do I need a permit to remove a tree in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

It depends on your municipality and county. Many Maryland counties and cities — including Anne Arundel County — have tree protection ordinances that require permits for removing trees above a certain diameter, trees in critical areas (near streams, wetlands, or the Chesapeake Bay), or trees on commercial properties. Some HOAs also have their own rules. Always check with your local planning or environmental office before removing a significant tree. A Licensed Tree Expert familiar with local regulations can guide you through the permit process.

Question 10

How much does tree removal cost?

Accepted Answer

Tree removal costs vary widely based on the size of the tree, its location, accessibility, proximity to structures, and the complexity of the job. A small tree under 30 feet may cost a few hundred dollars, while a large tree over 80 feet near a house or power line can cost significantly more. Crane-assisted removals, stump grinding, and debris hauling are typically additional. The best way to get an accurate price is a free on-site estimate from a Licensed Tree Expert who can assess all the variables in person.

Question 11

What happens to the wood after a tree is removed?

Accepted Answer

After removal, wood is typically chipped into mulch, cut into firewood-length sections for the homeowner to keep, or hauled away by the tree company. Arundel Tree Service offers free wood chips to homeowners who want them — chips make excellent garden mulch and help return organic matter to the soil. Large logs can sometimes be milled into lumber. The specific options depend on the species, condition of the wood, and what the homeowner prefers.

Question 12

Should I remove a tree that is leaning?

Accepted Answer

Not all leaning trees are dangerous. Many trees grow with a natural lean and are perfectly stable. The concern is a tree that has recently developed a lean, especially after a storm, or one that is leaning toward a structure, vehicle, or area where people gather. A sudden lean often indicates root failure on one side. Look for soil heaving or cracking at the base on the opposite side of the lean — a strong indicator of root plate movement. Any tree that has recently shifted its lean should be evaluated by a Licensed Tree Expert immediately.

Question 13

When is the best time of year to trim trees in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

For most deciduous trees, late winter to early spring — while the tree is still dormant and before new growth begins — is the ideal pruning window. The tree's structure is fully visible, wounds close quickly once growth resumes, and many disease-spreading insects and fungi are not yet active. However, dead, damaged, or hazardous branches should be removed any time of year. Oak trees in Maryland should not be pruned from April through October to reduce the risk of oak wilt transmission. Flowering trees are best pruned right after they bloom.

Question 14

What is the difference between tree trimming and tree pruning?

Accepted Answer

The terms are often used interchangeably, but technically they differ. Trimming typically refers to cutting back overgrown branches for aesthetic shape or to clear structures and sight lines. Pruning is a more targeted practice focused on the health and structure of the tree — removing dead, diseased, or crossing branches; improving light penetration; reducing weight on long limbs; and training young trees to develop strong architecture. Proper pruning follows ANSI A300 standards and requires knowledge of tree biology. Improper cuts — especially topping — can seriously harm or kill a tree.

Question 15

What is tree topping and why is it harmful?

Accepted Answer

Tree topping is the indiscriminate cutting of large branches or the main trunk to stubs, dramatically reducing the tree's height. It is widely condemned by arborists and tree care professionals as harmful practice. Topping removes the majority of the tree's leaf-bearing canopy, starving it of energy. The large wounds created rarely close properly and become entry points for decay and disease. The tree responds by producing rapid, weakly attached regrowth that is more prone to failure than the original branches. Topped trees typically decline and die within years. Crown reduction by a Licensed Tree Expert achieves height reduction without these harmful effects.

Question 16

How much of a tree can be pruned at one time?

Accepted Answer

As a general rule, no more than 25% of a tree's live canopy should be removed in a single pruning session. Removing more than that stresses the tree by significantly reducing its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. Young, healthy trees can tolerate slightly more; older or stressed trees should have even less removed. The goal of proper pruning is to make targeted, purposeful cuts — not to dramatically reduce the tree's size all at once. If significant size reduction is needed, it should be done over multiple seasons.

Question 17

Should I seal or paint tree pruning cuts?

Accepted Answer

No. Decades of research have shown that wound sealants, pruning paint, and tree wound dressings do not help trees heal and can actually trap moisture and promote decay. Trees do not heal wounds the way humans do — they compartmentalize them, forming a barrier of new wood around the wound. The best thing you can do after pruning is make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk), which allows the tree to compartmentalize the wound naturally and efficiently.

Question 18

Can I prune my own trees or should I hire a professional?

Accepted Answer

Small, low branches on young trees can often be safely pruned by a homeowner with the right tools and basic knowledge of proper cut placement. However, any work that requires climbing, a ladder, or working near power lines should be left to a professional. In Maryland, anyone performing tree work for compensation must be a Licensed Tree Expert or work under one. Beyond safety, improper pruning cuts — flush cuts, stub cuts, or topping — can cause long-term damage to the tree. A Licensed Tree Expert will make the right cuts in the right places.

Question 19

Should I grind the stump after tree removal?

Accepted Answer

Stump grinding is highly recommended in most cases. Stumps left in the ground can take decades to fully decompose, attract wood-boring insects and termites, harbor fungal diseases that can spread to nearby trees, and create tripping hazards. They also make lawn maintenance difficult and can be unsightly. Stump grinding removes the stump to several inches below grade, allowing you to fill the area with soil and replant grass or a new tree. The ground wood chips left behind make excellent mulch.

Question 20

How deep does stump grinding go?

Accepted Answer

Standard stump grinding typically goes 6 to 12 inches below the soil surface — deep enough to allow grass to grow over the area and for most landscaping purposes. If you plan to plant a new tree in the same spot, or if the stump is in a location where roots could interfere with construction or hardscaping, deeper grinding or full root removal may be needed. The lateral roots extending from the stump are not removed by standard grinding but will decay naturally over time.

Question 21

Will a tree grow back from a stump?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the species. Many hardwood trees — including oaks, maples, elms, and sweetgums — will vigorously sprout from the stump and root system after being cut down. These sprouts (called epicormic shoots or stump sprouts) can grow several feet in a single season. If you do not want regrowth, stump grinding is the most effective solution. Alternatively, the sprouts can be repeatedly cut back, though this is an ongoing effort. Some species, like most conifers, do not resprout after removal.

Question 22

A storm damaged my tree — what should I do first?

Accepted Answer

First, assess for immediate hazards from a safe distance. Do not approach a tree that has fallen on or near power lines — call your utility company immediately. Check whether any hanging branches (called "widow makers") are suspended overhead and could fall. Do not walk under a damaged tree until it has been assessed. Once immediate hazards are identified, call a Licensed Tree Expert for an emergency evaluation. Document the damage with photos for your insurance claim before any work begins. Many storm-damaged trees can be saved with proper pruning; others may need to be removed.

Question 23

Can a storm-damaged tree be saved?

Accepted Answer

Often yes, depending on the extent of the damage. Trees that have lost less than 50% of their canopy, have an intact root system, and have no major structural damage to the trunk or main scaffold branches are generally good candidates for recovery with proper pruning. Trees that have split trunks, lost their central leader, or have significant root damage are more difficult to save. A Licensed Tree Expert can assess the damage and give you an honest prognosis — including whether the tree is worth saving or poses an ongoing hazard.

Question 24

What is a "widow maker" and how dangerous is it?

Accepted Answer

A widow maker is a broken or dead branch that is lodged in the canopy of a tree and has not yet fallen. They are called widow makers because they can fall without warning — often hours or days after a storm when wind or vibration dislodges them. They are extremely dangerous and should never be walked under. Widow makers must be removed by a professional with the proper equipment and training to safely dislodge and lower them. Never attempt to knock down a hanging branch yourself.

Question 25

Does homeowner's insurance cover tree removal?

Accepted Answer

It depends on your policy and the circumstances. Most homeowner's insurance policies cover tree removal if the tree fell on a covered structure (your house, garage, fence) due to a covered peril such as a storm or lightning. They typically do not cover removal of a tree that fell in your yard without hitting a structure, or removal of a hazardous tree that has not yet fallen. Policies vary significantly — review yours carefully and document all damage with photos before cleanup begins. A Licensed Tree Expert can provide documentation to support your claim.

Question 26

What trees grow best in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Maryland's climate (USDA Zones 5b–8a depending on location) supports a wide range of native and adapted trees. Excellent native choices include red maple, white oak, tulip poplar (Maryland's state tree), American sycamore, river birch, sweetgum, black gum, Eastern redbud, serviceberry, and American holly. For shade, red oak, willow oak, and sugar maple perform well. Native trees are generally the best choice — they are adapted to local soils and climate, support local wildlife, and require less maintenance once established.

Question 27

How far from my house should I plant a tree?

Accepted Answer

The general rule is to plant trees at least as far from your house as their mature canopy spread — and farther for large trees. Small trees (under 25 feet tall) should be planted at least 10 feet from the foundation. Medium trees (25–50 feet) should be at least 15–20 feet away. Large trees (over 50 feet) should be 20–30 feet or more from the foundation. Also consider the mature root spread, which can extend 2–3 times the canopy radius. Planting too close can lead to foundation damage, roof damage from falling branches, and moisture issues.

Question 28

When is the best time to plant a tree in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Fall (September through November) is generally the best time to plant trees in Maryland. Cooler temperatures reduce transplant stress, and the tree can establish roots before winter without the energy demand of producing leaves. Early spring (before bud break) is the second-best window. Summer planting is the most stressful for trees and requires diligent watering. Container-grown trees can be planted almost any time the ground is not frozen, but fall and spring remain ideal.

Question 29

How do I plant a tree correctly?

Accepted Answer

Dig the planting hole 2–3 times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the root ball height — the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) should sit at or slightly above grade. Remove all burlap, wire baskets, and container material. Backfill with the native soil you removed (no amendments needed in most cases). Water thoroughly and apply 2–4 inches of mulch in a ring around the tree, keeping mulch away from the trunk. Stake only if necessary and remove stakes after one growing season. Water deeply once or twice a week for the first two years.

Question 30

What is the right way to mulch a tree?

Accepted Answer

Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, shredded bark) in a ring extending to the drip line of the tree if possible, or at least 3–4 feet out from the trunk. Keep mulch at least 3–6 inches away from the trunk — never pile mulch against the bark (called "volcano mulching"). Mulch against the trunk traps moisture, promotes rot, and creates habitat for rodents and insects that damage the bark. Proper mulching retains soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and improves soil biology as it decomposes.

Question 31

How do I know if a tree is a hazard?

Accepted Answer

Key hazard indicators include: a significant lean that has developed recently or is directed toward a structure; large dead branches in the canopy; cracks or splits in the trunk or major branches; cavities or hollow sections in the trunk; fungal growth (mushrooms, conks) at the base or on the trunk; root damage from construction, trenching, or soil compaction; bark that is separating from the trunk; and a history of branch failures. The risk is highest when a hazardous tree is near a "target" — a house, car, playground, or area where people spend time. A Licensed Tree Expert can perform a formal hazard assessment.

Question 32

My tree is near a power line. What should I do?

Accepted Answer

Never attempt to prune a tree that is touching or near a power line yourself. This is extremely dangerous and in Maryland, work within 10 feet of energized power lines must be performed by line-clearance tree trimmers with specialized training and equipment. Contact your utility company — they are responsible for maintaining clearance around their lines and may trim the tree at no cost to you. If you want additional pruning beyond utility clearance, a Licensed Tree Expert can coordinate with the utility or perform work outside the restricted zone.

Question 33

Can tree roots damage my foundation or pipes?

Accepted Answer

Tree roots follow water and oxygen and will exploit any existing crack or weakness in pipes or foundations — they do not create new cracks in intact concrete or pipe. However, roots can significantly worsen existing cracks and blockages. The species matters: willows, silver maples, and poplars have aggressive, water-seeking root systems and should not be planted near pipes or foundations. Oaks, most conifers, and many ornamental trees are much less problematic. If you have root intrusion in pipes, a plumber can clear it, but the tree should also be evaluated to determine whether removal is warranted.

Question 34

What is cabling and bracing and when is it used?

Accepted Answer

Cabling and bracing are supplemental support systems installed in trees with structural weaknesses to reduce the risk of branch or trunk failure. High-strength steel cables are installed between major branches to limit movement and reduce stress on weak unions. Bracing rods are threaded through split trunks or co-dominant stems to hold them together. These systems do not fix the underlying structural problem but can significantly extend the safe life of a tree that has value and is not an immediate hazard. They must be installed and periodically inspected by a Licensed Tree Expert.

Question 35

How often should my trees be inspected?

Accepted Answer

Most mature trees benefit from a professional inspection every 3–5 years under normal conditions. Trees that have been previously damaged, are in decline, are near structures, or are of high value should be inspected annually. After any major storm, all trees on your property should be checked for new damage. Young trees should be checked annually for the first 5 years to ensure proper establishment and to correct any structural issues early, when they are easiest to address.

Question 36

Do trees need to be fertilized?

Accepted Answer

Trees in natural forest settings recycle nutrients from their own leaf litter and do not need fertilization. Landscape trees, however, often grow in compacted, nutrient-poor soils with leaf litter removed, and can benefit from fertilization. The key is to fertilize based on a soil test — not on a generic schedule. Fertilizing a tree that does not need it can stimulate excessive growth that attracts pests and stresses the tree. Deep root fertilization, which delivers nutrients directly to the root zone, is more effective than surface applications for established trees.

Question 37

How much water does a newly planted tree need?

Accepted Answer

Newly planted trees need consistent, deep watering for the first 2–3 years until they are established. A general guideline is 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, once or twice a week during the growing season (more frequently in hot, dry weather). Water slowly and deeply to encourage roots to grow downward rather than staying near the surface. A slow-release watering bag (tree gator) is an effective tool for consistent moisture delivery. Once established, most native trees in Maryland are largely self-sufficient except during extended drought.

Question 38

What is deep root fertilization?

Accepted Answer

Deep root fertilization is a professional treatment in which liquid fertilizer is injected directly into the root zone of a tree using a pressurized probe inserted 8–12 inches into the soil at multiple points around the tree. This delivers nutrients where the feeder roots can absorb them, bypasses compacted surface soil, and also helps aerate the root zone. It is significantly more effective than spreading granular fertilizer on the surface, which may not reach the roots in compacted urban or suburban soils.

Question 39

Can I save a tree that has been hit by lightning?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes. Lightning damage ranges from a surface scar to complete shattering of the trunk. Trees that have a single scar running down the trunk but retain most of their structure and root system often survive with proper care — clean up the wound edges, fertilize, and water deeply. Trees that have been split, shattered, or had major portions of the trunk destroyed are unlikely to survive and may pose an immediate hazard. Have a lightning-struck tree evaluated by a Licensed Tree Expert within a few days of the strike.

Question 40

What should I look for when hiring a tree service in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

In Maryland, verify that the company holds a current Maryland Licensed Tree Expert license — this is required by state law for any company performing tree work for compensation. Ask for the license number and verify it at the Maryland DNR website. Confirm they carry liability insurance and workers' compensation. Get a written contract that clearly describes the scope of work, timeline, and cost. Be wary of companies that knock on your door unsolicited after a storm, demand cash payment, or pressure you to decide immediately. A reputable company will give you time to review a written proposal.

Question 41

Why does it matter if my tree company is licensed in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Maryland law requires anyone performing tree work for compensation to hold or work under a Maryland Licensed Tree Expert license. This license requires passing a rigorous 140-question state exam, meeting education or experience requirements, and carrying proper insurance. Licensed Tree Experts are also bound by a state Code of Ethics that prohibits recommending unnecessary work and requires them to act in the client's best interest. Hiring an unlicensed company means you have no state-backed consumer protection and the work may not be covered by your homeowner's insurance if something goes wrong.

Question 42

What is the difference between a Licensed Tree Expert and an arborist?

Accepted Answer

In Maryland, a Licensed Tree Expert (LTE) is a state-issued credential administered by the Maryland DNR. It requires passing a state exam, meeting experience or education requirements, and carrying insurance. An ISA Certified Arborist is a credential issued by the International Society of Arboriculture, a private professional organization, based on an exam and continuing education. Both credentials indicate professional knowledge, but the Maryland LTE is a legal requirement to perform tree work for compensation in the state. Some professionals hold both credentials. At Arundel Tree Service, our estimators are Maryland Licensed Tree Experts.

Question 43

Should I get multiple estimates for tree work?

Accepted Answer

Yes, getting 2–3 estimates for significant tree work is a reasonable practice. However, be cautious about choosing solely on price. The lowest bid may reflect cut corners on safety, insurance, or proper technique. Compare what is included in each estimate — stump grinding, debris removal, and cleanup are sometimes separate line items. Most importantly, verify that each company is licensed and insured. A slightly higher price from a licensed, insured company with a strong reputation is almost always the better value.

Question 44

What questions should I ask a tree company before hiring them?

Accepted Answer

Ask: Are you a Maryland Licensed Tree Expert? (Ask for the license number.) Do you carry liability insurance and workers' compensation? Can you provide a written contract? Who will be on-site supervising the work — is that person the licensed tree expert? Do you follow ANSI A300 pruning standards? What happens to the debris — is removal included? Will you protect my lawn and landscaping during the job? How long have you been in business? A reputable company will answer all of these questions confidently and without hesitation.

Question 45

What trees are native to Maryland and Anne Arundel County?

Accepted Answer

Maryland has a rich native tree flora. Common native trees in Anne Arundel County and the surrounding region include white oak, red oak, pin oak, willow oak, tulip poplar, red maple, sugar maple, American beech, black gum (tupelo), sweetgum, American sycamore, river birch, Eastern redbud, flowering dogwood, American holly, serviceberry, black cherry, and Eastern red cedar. Native trees are strongly preferred for new plantings — they support local wildlife, are adapted to local soils and rainfall patterns, and generally require less maintenance once established.

Question 46

What invasive trees should I avoid planting in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Several tree species are invasive in Maryland and should not be planted. Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) is highly invasive and spreads aggressively. Bradford pear (Callery pear) has become a serious invasive problem and is now banned from sale in Maryland. Norway maple outcompetes native maples. Mimosa (silk tree) spreads along roadsides and disturbed areas. Princess tree (Paulownia) and white mulberry are also problematic. If you have invasive trees on your property, a Licensed Tree Expert can advise on removal and replacement with appropriate native species.

Question 47

Does Maryland have a tree protection law?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Maryland has state-level forest conservation laws, and many counties and municipalities have their own tree protection ordinances. Anne Arundel County, for example, has regulations protecting trees in critical areas near the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, as well as requirements for tree replacement when significant trees are removed during development. The Maryland Forest Conservation Act requires developers to protect and replace trees during construction projects. Homeowners in regulated areas may need permits before removing trees above a certain size. A Licensed Tree Expert can help you navigate local requirements.

Question 48

What is the Chesapeake Bay Critical Area and how does it affect tree removal?

Accepted Answer

The Chesapeake Bay Critical Area is a 1,000-foot buffer zone around tidal waters and wetlands in Maryland, established to protect water quality in the Bay. Within this zone, tree removal is significantly restricted. Removing trees in the Critical Area typically requires a permit, and replacement planting is usually required. The regulations are administered by local governments under the Chesapeake Bay Critical Area Commission. If your property is near tidal water, a creek, or a wetland in Maryland, check with your county before removing any trees.

Question 49

Are there free wood chips available from tree companies in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Yes — many tree companies, including Arundel Tree Service, offer free wood chips to homeowners. When a tree crew is working in your area, they generate large volumes of wood chips from chipping branches. Rather than hauling chips to a disposal site, companies will often deliver a load to a homeowner who wants them. Wood chips make excellent mulch for garden beds, tree rings, and pathways. They improve soil biology as they decompose, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. Contact Arundel Tree Service at (410) 439-1900 to ask about chip availability in your area.

Question 50

How does construction near trees damage them?

Accepted Answer

Construction is one of the leading causes of tree decline and death in suburban and urban settings. The most common damage is soil compaction from heavy equipment, which destroys the pore space roots need for oxygen and water. Trenching for utilities cuts through major roots. Grade changes — adding or removing soil over the root zone — can suffocate roots or expose them. Even parking equipment or storing materials under a tree's canopy can cause significant compaction. Damage from construction often does not show up in the canopy for 2–5 years, making it easy to overlook the connection. Tree protection zones should be established before any construction begins.

Question 51

What is the best way to protect trees during home construction or renovation?

Accepted Answer

Establish a tree protection zone (TPZ) before work begins — typically a fenced area extending at least 1 foot from the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter, or to the drip line, whichever is greater. No equipment, materials, or vehicles should enter this zone. Avoid trenching within the root zone; use directional boring for utilities where possible. Do not change the grade within the root zone. If roots must be cut, make clean cuts with a sharp saw rather than tearing them with equipment. A Licensed Tree Expert can establish a tree protection plan and monitor compliance during construction.

50 Common Tree Care Questions Answered — Arundel Tree Service Maryland Licensed Tree Experts

50 Common Tree Care Questions — Answered

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